Photographs by Rick Steves’ Europe/DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI
At Sevilla’s Alcazar, the Christian king Pedro I built his palace around water, like the Moors who preceded him. They viewed water — so rare and precious in most of the Islamic world — as the purest symbol of life.
Sunday, December 3, 2017
The quintessential image of Spain is the region of Andalucia, home of bullfights, flamenco, whitewashed hill towns and glamorous Mediterranean resorts. And while much of the region's appeal is in its hill and coastal retreats, at the heart of Andalucia are three great cities: Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla.
Granada is the famous last home of the (Muslim) Moors, who were driven out of Spain and back to Africa in 1492 during the Reconquista -- the "reconquering" of Spain by Spaniards and Christians. Its top sight is the Alhambra, the last and greatest Moorish palace in Europe. Perched atop a hill and filled with colorful ornate stucco, scalloped filigree windows, exuberant gardens, bubbling fountains and peaceful pools, the palace highlights the splendor of Moorish civilization in the 13th and 14th centuries.
While much of Granada feels Spanish, the Albayzin -- the old Moorish quarter -- retains its labyrinthine, Moroccan-souk feel. Located on a hill across from the Alhambra, it has stunning views across to the palace. I like to come here at sunset and eat at one of the view restaurants or picnic at the San Nicolas terrace, which comes with great Roma (Gypsy) music nearly all day long. Pop a few euros into the musicians' hat, and enjoy an open-air concert as good as many you might pay much more for.
Because of its significance in the Reconquista, Isabel and Ferdinand, the greatest king and queen of Spain, decided to use Granada as their capital. It was here that they listened to Christopher Columbus' final pitch for a sea voyage to Asia and agreed to finance the trip. At the Royal Chapel, travelers can view the king and queen's elaborately carved Renaissance-style tombs.
About 100 miles northwest of Granada is Cordoba, another great Moorish city and home to the Mezquita, a splendid mosque. Once the center of Western Islam and the heart of a cultural capital that rivaled Baghdad and Constantinople, the Mezquita is remarkably well-preserved, giving visitors a chance to soak up the ambience of Islamic Cordoba in its 10th-century prime. Inside the mosque, a huge 16th-century cathedral rises up from the center. When the Christians came, instead of destroying the mosque, they built their church in the middle of it.
Though some travelers stop in Cordoba for just a few hours to blitz the Mezquita, it's worth spending a night here to explore other aspects of the city: the untouristy modern district; the Jewish quarter, with a small yet beautifully preserved synagogue; and the city's pride -- its patios. These mini-paradises function as outdoor living spaces, hiding behind elaborate ironwork gates and filled with flowers spilling down whitewashed walls, amid colorful ceramics and doors.
Just 45 minutes by high-speed train from Cordoba is Sevilla, the capital of Andalucia. While Granada has the great Alhambra and Cordoba has the remarkable Mezquita, Sevilla has a soul.
Sevilla's two big sights are its cathedral and royal palace. Unlike in Cordoba, Reconquista Christians ripped down Sevilla's mosque to build a cathedral, announcing their intention to make it so big that "anyone who sees it will take us for madmen." Today it's the third-largest church in Europe, after St. Peter's at the Vatican and St. Paul's in London.
Just a few remnants of the former mosque remain, including the giant bell tower, which was once the minaret. Today, visitors can spiral up the ramp to the top of the bell tower for grand views. The cathedral also houses Christopher Columbus' tomb, which is being hoisted up by four kings.
Sevilla's old palace (Alcazar) is decorated with a mix of Islamic and Christian elements -- a style called Mudejar. While the Alhambra was built by Moors for their own rulers, the Alcazar was built by Moorish artisans in the Moorish style, mostly for Christian rulers. Spectacularly decorated halls and courtyards have distinctive Islamic-style flourishes, such as elaborate designs on stucco, colorful ceramic tile, lobed arches atop slender columns and Arabic writing on the walls.
The palace is also where Queen Isabel administered the business of the country's nautical explorations. In the Admiral's Hall, Columbus recounted his travels and Magellan planned his around-the-world cruise. Today, exhibits call up the era of Columbus and Spain's New World dominance.
When visiting Sevilla, flamenco is a must. This music-and-dance art form has its roots in the Roma and Moorish cultures. The men do most of the flamboyant machine-gun footwork while the women often concentrate on graceful turns and smooth, shuffling steps. In the raspy-voiced wails of the singers, you'll hear echoes of the Muslim call to prayer. While the concerts are designed for tourists, they are real and riveting.
Southern Spain's three big cities provide an interesting look at the Moorish influence on Spanish culture. Each is worth a visit for insight into this unique corner of Europe.
Travel on 12/03/2017
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