Ellington

Description

Mary Beth Ringgold, who brought you Capers and the successful revival of Cajun's Wharf, is on her "metal" with the menu for her third restaurant, with a separate grocery store on the ground floor of Little Rock's new 300 Third Tower. It's closer to Capers than Cajun's, although half the dinner entrees are seafood. The most startling opener is the "Not Your Mom's" Homemade Mac & Cheese Balls, bread-crumb encrusted macaroni and cheddar served in a conical wire contraption lined with fake newspaper, a la fish and chips, with a small cup of blackberry dipping sauce. Top entree choice is the Peach Glazed Pork Tenderloin, three pork medallions wrapped in thin, smoky, peppery bacon with just the right amount of glaze.
Mood: The decor very much matches the sort of coppery exterior of the new retail-and-condo tower, with chair upholstery, strong wooden tables, walls, some of the lighting fixtures and menus all in some shade of copper, bronze or light brown. If there's a sudden need for percussion, you can use the drumlike lighting fixtures suspended over each table. Black accents the large, well-stocked bar on the east side. There's also a large table next to the bar with suspended lights with woven copper shades.
- Eric E. Harrison